Itinerary Ideas: Isaan Adventures

For this latest edition of our Itinerary Ideas series, we focus on a two-week train journey through the Isaan region of Thailand. This northeast corner of Thailand is often overlooked by tourists but gained some well-deserved attention in 2024 thanks to the BBC show, Race Across the World. The fourth series of the hit BBC program saw the teams travel from Japan to Indonesia. Leg four of the race was from Phnom Penh in Cambodia to Mae Sariang in the far north-west province of Mae Hong Son in Thailand. 

Before travelling north towards Mae Sariang, all of the teams entered Thailand via Isaan. The Race Across the World competitors were in a rush, but that is the antithesis of travel in Isaan. Life in Isaan, especially rural Isaan, is the epitome of ‘sabai sabai’. This is a corner of the country that is ideal for slow travel and with a reliable rail network linking the main urban areas, you can travel cheaply and comfortably by train in Isaan. So take your time and enjoy the delights of travelling through this unheralded region of Thailand.

This Isaan itinerary is inspired by the route taken by the eventual Race Across the World winners, Alfie and Owen. We’ll show you the locations the two best friends visited and suggest some of the places they could have gone if they weren’t in a race against the clock. 

For travellers seeking an authentic and immersive experience, Isaan offers fascinating culture, history, and oodles of charm. This two-week train itinerary will take you through the heart of Isaan, covering destinations like Khao Yai National Park, Nakhon Ratchasima, Phimai, Khon Kaen, and Udon Thani, all while travelling by train.

If you are crossing into Thailand from Cambodia, you can pick up this itinerary in Pak Chong or Nakhon Ratchasima. However, for most travellers, it will be more convenient to start in Bangkok. Our two-week Isaan adventure by train looks like this:

• Bangkok to Pak Chong (2/3 days in Khao Yai National Park)
• Pak Chong to Nakhon Ratchasima (2 days in Nakhon Ratchasima) 
• Nakhon Ratchasima to Phimai (2 days in Phimai)
• Phimai to Nakhon Ratchasima (1 day in Nakhon Ratchasima)
• Nakhon Ratchasima to Khon Kaen (2 days in Khon Kaen)
• Khon Kaen to Udon Thani (2 days in Udon Thani)
• Udon Thani to Nong Khai (3 days in Nong Khai)

Bangkok to Pak Chong (for Khao Yai National Park)

Begin your adventure by boarding a morning train from Bangkok’s new train terminal, Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. The leisurely journey to Pak Chong takes around 4-5 hours. Pak Chong is the main gateway to Khao Yai National Park, Thailand’s oldest national park. Several guest-houses will offer pick-up from Pak Chong train station and if you want to hit the ground running you could do an afternoon tour of Khao Yai or go on a night safari and camp overnight (Alfie and Owen did this) the day you arrive. Alternatively, spend time relaxing in the small town of Pak Chong.

After a good night’s sleep, embark on a full-day tour of Khao Yai National Park. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best places for bird watching and nature photography in Thailand. It’s also one of the best places in Thailand to see elephants in the wild.

In Race Across the World, Alfie and Owen trekked to Haew Suwat Waterfall. You can follow in their footsteps to visit the iconic waterfall featured in the Leonardo DiCaprio movie, The Beach. To see and do as much as possible in Khao Yai, it’s advisable to book a tour with local guides. Travelling with these local experts will allow you to see more wildlife and enjoy more of the nature trails.

In the show, Alfie and Owen also went on a white-water rafting trip. This decision led to them arriving last at the final checkpoint so the two friends must have had mixed feelings. If you’d like to do something similar to them without having to worry about the clock,  white-water rafting can be arranged in and around Khao Yai with the stretch of water at Kaeng Hin Phoeng, one of the best for adventure seekers.  

Pak Chong to Nakhon Ratchasima

From Pak Chong, hop on a local train to Nakhon Ratchasima (also known as Korat), the gateway to the northeastern region. The journey is only about two hours by train, making it an easy transition to your next destination.

Arrive in Nakhon Ratchasima and take some time to explore the city. Start by visiting the Thao Suranari Monument in the centre of town. This monument is dedicated to the city’s heroine, Khun Ying Mo (aka ‘Ya Mo’ or ‘Grandmother Yo’). In the 19th century, Ya Mo played an instrumental role in defending the city against an invasion by Laos. To this day, Ya Mo remains a source of immense pride for local people. An annual festival in her honour is held each year in March/April. 

Isaan food
Isaan cuisine is famous for its intense spiciness with the most well-known dish from this region being som tam, a fiery green papaya salad loaded with chilies. For a traditional Isaan meal, pair som tam with gai yang (grilled chicken) and khao niao (sticky rice). A cold beer, served with ice in the glass, is the perfect refreshment. Other regional specialities include larb moo (minced pork salad) and sai krok Isaan (Isaan sausages), both offering unique flavours characteristic of northeastern Thailand.

Nakhon Ratchasima to Phimai 

Travel by local bus for the one-hour journey from Nakhon Ratchasima to Phimai Historical Park. Although the park can be visited on a day trip from Nakhon Ratchasima, staying overnight allows more time to relax in the amiable town of Phimai. 

Spend a day exploring Phimai Historical Park, home to one of the most impressive Khmer temple sites to be found anywhere outside of Cambodia. Dating back to the 11th century, this ancient site predates even Angkor Wat and offers a fascinating glimpse into Thailand’s Khmer history. 

Away from Phimai Historical Park, take time out to visit other nearby attractions like the Sai Ngam banyan tree grove along the Mun River. The grove spans an impressive 1,300 square metres, with pathways allowing visitors to walk beneath the sprawling roots of these ancient trees. The banyans have grown from seeds scattered by the original tree, believed to be over 350 years old. According to Thai folklore, banyan trees are home to female spirits, and daily offerings are made at the spirit house near the original tree in honour of these mystical beings.

Phimai to Nakhon Ratchasima 

Travel back to Nakhon Ratchasima by bus and either catch the train straight to Khon Kaen or spend another day enjoying Isaan food and the ambience of Korat.

Nakhon Ratchasima to Khon Kaen

The train ride from Korat to Khon Kaen takes around 4-5 hours. On arrival, settle into one of the city’s guesthouses or hotels.  Khon Kaen is known for its role as an educational and cultural centre of Isaan, with a vibrant student population and a mix of traditional and modern attractions.

Spend the rest of the day wandering through the city’s downtown area. Stop by the Khon Kaen National Museum to gain a deeper understanding of the region’s history, archaeology, and art. In the evening, explore Bueng Kaen Nakhon, a scenic lake surrounded by parks and street food vendors.

Visit Wat Nong Wang, one of Khon Kaen’s most iconic temples. The temple’s nine-story pagoda is beautifully designed, and you can climb to the top for panoramic views of the city. While the temptation is to simply admire the view, the temple is filled with subtle design details; look down to admire the tiled artwork on the floor which includes depictions of dinosaurs which this region is famous for.

If you have time, take a day trip from Khon Kaen to Phu Wiang National Park, which is renowned for its dinosaur fossils. Explore the park’s trails and check out the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum which showcases fossils and exhibits of prehistoric life.

Khon Kaen to Udon Thani

From Khon Kaen, catch a train north to Udon Thani,  a journey that takes about 2-3 hours. After arriving in Udon Thani, visit the city’s main attractions, starting with the Nong Prajak Public Park. This large park offers a peaceful escape with its lake, walking paths, and flower gardens. In the evening, visit the lively UD Town for a mix of local and international street food, shopping, and live music.

Udon Thani has a history dating back to prehistoric times and one of the best locations to appreciate this is Ban Chiang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Southeast Asia’s most important archaeological sites. The Ban Chiang Archaeological Museum displays artefacts and pottery from a civilisation that thrived more than 5,000 years ago, offering insight into the early human history of the region.

Udon Thani’s second UNESCO World Heritage site is Phu Phrabat Historical Park. The site is notable for standing stones known as ‘bai sima’. These ritual boundary markers were placed around sacred sites and date back to the Dvaravati period (7th-11th centuries CE).

Depending on the time of year you visit, you could spend a half-day exploring the Red Lotus Sea (Talay Bua Daeng) at Kumphawapi. From December to February, this lake is covered in blooming pink lotus flowers, creating a stunning landscape. You can hire a boat to take you through the blooms, making for a perfect photo opportunity. The Red Lotus Sea is best visited early in the morning when the flowers are in full bloom, so plan to arrive early if possible.

Sitting high up on a hill in Udon Thani province, Wat Pa Phu Kon is another memorable location to visit. The interior design of the temple is just as striking as the exterior with the highlight being the magnificent 20-metre long Reclining Buddha made from marble.

All aboard the Skylab
Tuk-tuks can be found all over Thailand, but Isaan has its own stylish version known as the ‘Samlor Skylab’ which is a practical and low-cost solution used for carrying passengers as well as goods all over Isaan. This quirky form of transport was said to have been invented in Udon Thani in the 1970s. Samlor translates as three-wheels and the addition of the name Skylab came from the unlikely association with the US Space Laboratory Station, the Skylab, from the same era. The nickname may have been given by American soldiers who were stationed in Udon Thani at that time and it’s a name that has stuck.

Udon Thani to Nong Khai

From Udon Thani take a bus or minivan to the charming riverside town of Nong Khai. With its delightful promenade and views across the Mekong River to Laos, this is one of Isaan’s most relaxed riverside settings. Nong Khai is a destination where you can unwind and relax by the Mekong with good food and friendly people. 

Hire a bicycle to cycle along the promenade and then make the short trip out of town to the impressive Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park. A little further out of town by car is the glass skywalk at Wat Pha Tak Seua where you can soak up the fabulous views over the Mekong River. 

After Nong Khai

You can wind up your Isaan adventures by venturing on to Laos or taking the sleeper train back from Nong Khai to Bangkok. If you head back to Udon Thani there is also the option to fly to Bangkok or Chiang Mai to continue your Thai adventures.

Travelling by Train in Isaan

Trains in Thailand offer three classes: first, second, and third. For shorter journeys, third class is adequate with open windows offering good views, though it can be crowded and hot. For longer journeys, second class offers more comfort with air-conditioning and reclining seats.

Third class tickets on local trains can be bought at the station on the day of travel. Train tickets for other trains can be booked at the station or via the State Railway of Thailand website. Book tickets in advance for long-distance routes (e.g. the sleeper train Nong Khai to Bangkok).

Krung Thep Aphiwat
If you are travelling by long-distance train in or out of Bangkok, you need to select Krung Thep Aphiwat (the new central rail terminal for Bangkok) as the arrival or destination station. On the State Railway of Thailand ticket system, if you select Bangkok, it only shows local trains from the old Bangkok Hua Lamphong station.

Itinerary Ideas
This article is part of our Itinerary Ideas series. These particular itineraries are for anybody, but may appeal more to repeat visitors to Thailand looking to explore different destinations on their next trip or anyone seeking meaningful travel experiences. If you’re a first-time visitor to Thailand or looking for more ideas of where to go and what to do, check out these articles too:
2-week Thailand itinerary
3-week Thailand itinerary
4-week Thailand itinerary

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