Itinerary Ideas: Ayutthaya, Lopburi, Sukhothai

For the latest edition of our Itinerary Ideas series, we focus on historic Thailand and the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. Although this itinerary focuses on several important historical locations, it also allows you to experience some gorgeous countryside and colourful provincial capitals. We suggest travelling by train on this route so you can see another side of Thailand. Even if history isn’t normally your thing, train travel in Thailand can be an enriching experience. 

This itinerary is straightforward to arrange independently and can be combined with visits to Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The most convenient start-off point for most travellers will be Bangkok. From there you can slowly work your way up to Sukhothai. After Sukhothai, you can travel up to Chiang Mai and explore North Thailand. Alternatively, if you are already in North Thailand but still like the look of this route, you can do the trip in reverse order and travel down to Bangkok before heading east or south to the Thai islands.

This itinerary is flexible so if you’re a first-time visitor to Thailand or don’t have the luxury of time on your side, you could just visit Ayutthaya and Sukhothai spending a few days in each. Otherwise, we would suggest something like this:

• 2/3 days Ayutthaya 
• 1/2 days Lopburi 
• 1 day Phitsanulok
• 3/4 days Sukhothai

Ayutthaya

The kingdom of Ayutthaya (1350-1767) left an indelible mark on modern-day Thailand. During its heyday, Ayutthaya was a sophisticated city with glittering palaces and magnificent temples. Historians estimate that by the 17th century, there were over 400 temples in Ayutthaya. A regional powerhouse, Ayutthaya was dubbed the ‘Venice of the East’ by European merchants due to its cosmopolitan population and network of canals and rivers. The kingdom eventually fell when Burmese invaders sacked Ayutthaya, but the atmospheric ruins seen today are a powerful testament to the city’s former prestige. 

Explore the Ayutthaya Historical Park by bicycle or hire one of the city’s colourful tuk-tuks to tour the main sites. In the central district, some of the main highlights include Wat Phra Sri Sanphet with its towering chedis, and the stone Buddha head entwined in tree roots at Wat Mahathat.

To the southeast of the main park area, make time for the impressive Wat Yai Chaimongkhon.  In addition to a magnificent reclining Buddha statue, the temple features dozens of stone Buddhas around the main chedi. In the northwest of the park zone, you will find another massive reclining Buddha at Wat Lokkayasutha. Sitting on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the distinctive Khmer-style buildings of Wat Chaiwatthanaram are a wonderful location to enjoy the sunset.

If you have time, make the short trip by train from Ayutthaya to Bang Pa In. The elegant royal palace here features immaculately landscaped gardens and European-influenced architecture. For a unique experience, visit nearby Wat Niwet Thammaprawat and take a ride across the river on the old-fashioned cable car.

With so much foreign influence in Ayutthaya’s history, the region enjoys a diverse food scene. One of the most famous local dishes is roti sai mai. Resembling candy floss and coming in an array of colours this is a sweet treat wrapped in a Thai-style pancake. Khao mok gai, a Thai version of chicken biryani, is another popular dish believed to have been brought to Ayutthaya by Indian traders. Kuay tiao reua (boat noodles) date back to Ayutthaya’s heyday when vendors plied the canals and are another must-try local dish. And don’t miss the opportunity to sample the giant fresh river prawns which Ayutthaya is also famous for. 

Lopburi

If you take the train north from Ayutthaya you can either head straight up to Phitsanulok (for Sukhothai) or make a stopover at Lopburi. The railway station in Lopburi is located conveniently close to the city centre where there are several interesting ancient ruins including the Khmer-style Phra Prang Sam Yot. What makes this particular temple so different from those in Ayutthaya and Sukhothai is that this one is inhabited … but not by people.

When you arrive in central Lopburi you’ll soon discover why it’s known as ‘monkey town’. Hundreds of macaques live here with the temple ruins in the centre of the city one of their main bases. While Lopburi residents accept that macaques are part of the deal of living here, the relationship isn’t always easy. Despite that, the presence of the primates does bring in tourist revenue with locals acknowledging this with the annual Monkey Banquet Festival in November.

Phitsanulok

For overseas tourists, Phitsanulok might not be an obvious place to spend time. But if you’re travelling by train to Sukhothai then P’lok (as locals call it) is the most convenient train station for Sukhothai Historical Park.

Although it may not be bristling with tourist attractions, this understated provincial capital is a pleasant location to spend at least one night before venturing onwards to Sukhothai. From Phitsanulok railway station you can catch a tuk-tuk to the bus terminal and take the bus from there for the one-hour ride to Sukhothai. 

Sukhothai

The ancient Sukhothai kingdom (1238-1438) shaped Thailand’s language, culture and religion. The name Sukhothai translates as the ‘Dawn of Happiness’ with the city regarded as the first capital of Thailand 

Today, the picturesque Sukhothai countryside is dotted with ancient ruins and historic sites that hint at the former glories of this area. The wonderful Sukhothai Historical Park is the highlight of any visit and with its quiet setting is ideal to explore by bicycle. Highlights include Wat Mahathat, Wat Si Sawai, Wat Si Chum, and Wat Saphan Hin. For an overview of the history of Sukhothai, pay a visit to Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. 

If you’re staying in Sukhothai Old City, wake up early one morning to see the monks on their morning alms round at Wat Traphang Thong. With a small lake in front of the temple and a wooden footbridge, this is a picturesque setting to experience Thai culture with local Buddhists offering alms to the monks.

When you visit Sukhothai, try to make time too for a day trip to Si Satchanalai Historical Park. You can take a bus from Sukhothai to get there and once you arrive at Si Satchanalai you can hire a bicycle to explore. Si Satchanalai sees far fewer visitors compared to Sukhothai Historical Park and with quiet roads and trails is a delight to cycle around. 

Si Satchanalai was once a satellite town of Sukhothai and played an important role in pottery and ceramics. You can still see some of the ancient kilns, but the true delight of Si Satchanalai is simply cycling around and coming across numerous old ruins while enjoying the serene surroundings. The nearby town of Sawankhalok is also worth a visit, with its museum, historic buildings, and vibrant street art.

Travel

For this itinerary, we suggest travelling by train. Trains on this route all run on the Northern Line and tickets for ordinary trains can be purchased at the station on the day. Tickets for special express trains can be purchased in advance at any train station or via the SRT online ticket system. Although changes are taking place to modernise the Thai train system, departure and arrival times aren’t always punctual. Trains can be tracked in real-time via SRT’s Train Tracking System.

Northern Line timetable (PDF file)
(courtesy of Thai Train Guide)

Note that some trains (special express) use Bangkok’s new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal while other local services (ordinary/commuter) may still start or terminate at Bangkok Hua Lamphong.

Official information on Thailand’s trains can be found on the State Railway of Thailand website. Probably of more use to overseas tourists is the Thai Train Guide which is the work of a British man and long-term Thailand resident, Richard Barrow. If you have any questions about train trips in Thailand you’ll almost certainly find the answer on this comprehensive site. 

Itinerary Ideas
This article is part of our Itinerary Ideas series. These particular itineraries are for anybody, but may appeal more to repeat visitors to Thailand looking to explore different destinations on their next trip or anyone seeking meaningful travel experiences. If you’re a first-time visitor to Thailand or looking for more ideas of where to go and what to do, check out these articles too:
2-week Thailand itinerary
3-week Thailand itinerary
4-week Thailand itinerary

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