Exploring Bangkok’s canals

Canals (known in Thai as ‘khlongs’) are an integral part of Bangkok’s history. After the demise of Ayutthaya, a new capital was established in Thonburi in 1767. The capital moved again in 1782, but this time it was only a short move across the Chao Phraya River to Rattanakosin. This is the area of Bangkok where the Grand Palace is located. The khlongs were initially dug for strategic reasons and provided added defence to the new capital, with Rattanakosin becoming an island. The waterways also served as trade and transportation routes, and for irrigation.

As Bangkok developed and roads became more important, many of the Thai capital’s former canals were concreted over. However, with a little imagination, you can see why the moniker ‘Venice of the East’ may have been apt. While the heyday of Bangkok’s canals may have gone, taking a cruise along these waterways provides a fascinating insight into another side of city life.

Central Bangkok: Khlong Saen Saep

The easiest and cheapest way to experience a boat ride on Bangkok’s canals is to hop aboard a canal boat on the city’s central canal, Khlong Saen Saep. However, these boats aren’t suitable for nervous travellers. They are aimed at local commuters, and while anyone is welcome to use them, the boats are on a tight schedule, and they don’t hang around. Passengers are expected to get on and off quickly, and the boats travel at speed along the canals.

The Khlong Saen Saep boats are noisy and throw up spray from the canal with a plastic screen held up to keep the water at bay. It’s a unique experience and one which every adventurous visitor to Bangkok should try at least once. The boats run daily from 5:30 am to 8 pm on weekdays and until 7 pm on weekends.

Cost depends on distance and ranges from 10 to 24 Baht. Keep coins or a 20 Baht note handy to pay the fare, which is paid directly to the conductor on the boat. If possible, avoid travelling during the rush hour. For a more comfortable experience, travel between 10 am and 3 pm.

Some of the useful piers and attractions for tourists include:

• Panfa Leelard Pier (for Golden Mount, Loha Prasat)
• Hua Chang Pier (for Jim Thompson House, Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, MBK Centre, BTS Skytrain National Stadium and Siam)
• Pratunam Pier (for Central World)
• Chitlom Pier (for Chitlom Road, BTS Skytrain Chitlom)
• Witthayu Pier (for Wireless Road)
• Nana Nua Pier (for lower Sukhumvit, Soi 3)
• Nana Chard Pier (Sukhumvit Soi 15)
• Asok Pier (for Phetchaburi MRT Metro station)

The same company which runs the commuter boat service launched a tourist boat service in 2017. The boats are larger, go slower, and allow more time to get on and off. Services stopped during the COVID pandemic and still seem to be infrequent at best. The price was previously 200 Baht for a day ticket.

West Bangkok: Thonburi canals

Bangkok Yai Canal, aka Khlong Bang Luang, is the biggest and best-known canal in Thonburi on the west side of the Chao Phraya River. This waterway was originally part of the main course of the Chao Phraya. It was in the 16th century when the river’s course was altered to cut journey times for traders en route to Ayutthaya, the capital of Siam at that time.

Cruising the network of canals that criss-cross Thonburi provides a glimpse into a serene side of Bangkok. Expect to see locals fishing, children playing, and large water monitor lizards basking on the banks of the canals. Despite modernisation in other areas of Thonburi, the waterside communities retain their quiet charm. It’s a refreshing contrast to the hectic bustle of Thailand’s capital, and you’ll get to visit some interesting locations along the way.

Completed in 2021, the huge bronze Buddha statue at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen provides an imposing backdrop. Several canal tours include this on their route. Also included on many tours is a stop at the Artist House (Baan Silapin). Part of the Phasi Charoen community, this collection of canal-side buildings is a creative space that includes art galleries, creative workshops, cafes, and souvenir shops. It’s also renowned for its khon performances, a traditional Thai performing art that features masked performers and intricately designed puppets.

If you take a canal tour on a weekend or public holiday, you have the option of visiting a local floating market such as Lat Mayom, Song Khlong or Taling Chan.

James Bond in Bangkok
The khlongs of Thonburi were the film location for a chase scene in the classic James Bond movie, The Man with the Golden Gun (1974). Other locations in Bangkok featured in the film include Ratchadamnoen Avenue (near the Grand Palace), Ratchadamnoen Muay Thai Stadium, Muang Boran (Ancient City), and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.

How to book a Bangkok canal tour

If you’d like to arrange a canal tour in Bangkok, there are several options available. Although you can book a canal tour directly at some river piers in Bangkok, this can be hit or miss in terms of service and the price you are charged. You will see services advertised at piers popular with tourists, including Sathorn Pier and Wat Arun Pier. Prices aren’t always clearly marked, and you should haggle the price for a mutually agreeable rate. Depending on the month you visit and how busy it is, expect to pay at least 1,500 Baht per person (if there are four or more of you) or 6,000 Baht for a couple for a private tour that lasts around two hours.

You will normally get a more transparent price and service if you book through your Bangkok hotel. Alternatively, there are several service providers online which offer clear pricing and details of routes. Consider paying extra for an English-speaking guide who will provide more information and insights on the locations you visit and can make the experience more enjoyable. These are links to some of the companies offering Bangkok canal tours:

• Along the Klong
• Co Van Kessel
• Expique
• Hidden Bangkok Tours
• Poomjai Garden
• Siam Rise Travel
• Thai Canal Tours
• Thailand Local Tour

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