Culture and sanuk at the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival

Most tourists visiting Thailand won’t be familiar with Ubon Ratchathani. The most easterly province in the country does not get much publicity online, and relatively few overseas travellers make it here. With so many other amazing destinations in Thailand, it’s understandable that tourists want to visit the more famous areas. In some ways that’s a pity for Ubon Ratchathani, but it also presents an opportunity for discerning travellers.

For adventurous travellers, the appeal of Ubon (as it is often shortened) is that it is off the tourist trail. For anyone seeking authentic experiences and a chance to see ‘Unseen Thailand’, head to the northeast Isaan region and you won’t be disappointed. And if you time your visit to coincide with the fabulous Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival in July, you’ll see what makes this destination so special.

When is the Candle Festival?
The dates of Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa are determined by the traditional lunar calendar. The celebrations usually take place in July, although the exact dates vary from year to year.
See our festival calendar for dates

Origins of the Candle Festival

The Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival is closely linked to two of the most important dates in the Buddhist calendar: Asahna Bucha and Khao Phansa. Asahna Bucha commemorates the Buddha’s first sermon. The following day marks Khao Phansa, the beginning of the three-month annual rains retreat, often referred to as the ‘Buddhist Lent’.

For generations, Thai Buddhists have observed Khao Phansa by donating candles to local temples as an act of merit-making. Before electricity became commonplace, these candles served a practical purpose. During the rains retreat, monks traditionally remained at their home monastery rather than travelling, relying on candlelight for studying Buddhist scriptures, meditation, and other daily activities during the darker monsoon months.

As electric lighting replaced candles for everyday use, the tradition evolved from a practical donation into a symbolic offering. Communities began crafting increasingly elaborate wax candles, often competing in friendly rivalry to create the most impressive designs. In Ubon Ratchathani, this creative spirit developed into the magnificent wax sculptures that have become the festival’s defining feature. Today, enormous floats decorated with intricately carved scenes from Buddhist teachings, Thai history, and mythology parade through the city, attracting visitors from across Thailand.

Although awards are presented for the finest wax sculptures and parade floats, the festival remains rooted in its religious purpose. For the artisans, volunteers, and local communities who spend around three months creating these remarkable works of art, participation is considered both an honour and an opportunity to make merit.

Where is the Candle Festival celebrated?

In many parts of Thailand, the approach of Khao Phansa is marked by colourful community processions in which beautifully decorated candles are carried to local temples. Accompanied by traditional music, dancing and lively celebrations, these small parades are often organised by neighbourhood groups and offer visitors an authentic glimpse of local culture. If you’re travelling in Thailand during this period, there’s a chance you’ll encounter one of these festive events.

While smaller candle processions take place across the country, Ubon Ratchathani hosts the largest and most spectacular celebration. Renowned for its monumental wax sculptures, elaborate parade floats and vibrant cultural performances, the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival has become Thailand’s premier Khao Phansa event, drawing thousands of visitors each year.

What to expect at the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival

This may be a huge cultural event, but it is also filled with sanuk, music, dancing, and street food.

The heart of the festival is Thung Si Mueang, the public park in the centre of Ubon Ratchathani. In the weeks leading up to Khao Phansa, the city’s temples become busy workshops where teams of skilled artisans carve enormous wax sculptures by hand. Visitors can often watch the craftsmen at work as they add the intricate finishing details to the floats before they are transported to the city centre.

As the festival approaches, the roads surrounding Thung Si Mueang fill with the completed floats, creating an impressive open-air exhibition. The surrounding streets take on a carnival atmosphere with food vendors, market stalls, live music and cultural performances attracting both residents and visitors.

Although the Candle Festival is one of Thailand’s best-known cultural celebrations, the vast majority of visitors are Thai. International tourists are still relatively few, making it a welcoming and authentic experience. Thailand has a deserved reputation for friendliness, and that is definitely the case in Ubon. Don’t be surprised if local families ask to take a photo with you or students approach you for a short English conversation as part of their studies.

The Candle Festival parade

The highlight of the celebrations is the spectacular parade. Up until 2023, this was a one-day event, but now takes place on both Asahna Bhucha Day and Khao Phansa Day.

Dozens of elaborately decorated floats take part alongside musicians, dancers and performers representing communities from across Ubon Ratchathani province. The parade combines religious tradition with local pride, showcasing the province’s artistic heritage through colourful costumes, traditional music and remarkable wax carvings depicting scenes from Buddhism, Thai history and mythology.

Tips for watching the parade

The morning parade begins near Wat Sri Ubon Rattanaram (Wat Sri Thong), then travels along Upparat Road before continuing towards the junction with Suriyat Road. The parade normally gets underway between 8 and 9 AM and can take three hours or more to pass a single viewing point. Grandstands are available along parts of the route, but arriving at least an hour before the start is recommended if you want one of the best seats.

The unreserved seating is on a first-come, first-served basis. There is also a ticketed section of reserved seating. These usually go on sale around two months before the event via an official Facebook page from Ubon municipality. While it can be good to be seated for a while, the real joy of the parade is walking around and meeting people and immersing yourself in the event.

In addition to the big morning parades, there are smaller evening parades along part of the perimeter road of the park (Upparat Road) starting around 7 PM.

Festival schedules occasionally change, so it’s worth confirming the latest timings after arriving in Ubon Ratchathani. The tourist information counter at the airport, local hotels and the Tourism Authority of Thailand office can all provide up-to-date details.

The event takes place during the rainy season, but the weather will still be hot and humid. Even on a cloudy day, use sun protection. Free bottles of water are available during the parades, but take a reusable bottle with you in your day pack along with a small UV umbrella to protect against sun or rain.

More than just a parade

The festival extends beyond the main procession. In the days before Khao Phansa, exhibitions, cultural demonstrations and evening performances are held at venues throughout the city. Thung Si Mueang hosts cultural shows and entertainment in the evenings, providing visitors with another opportunity to experience the festive atmosphere before the main parades.

Once the judging is over, many of the award-winning floats remain on display in Ubon Ratchathani for several days, allowing visitors who miss the parade to admire the craftsmanship at a more leisurely pace. Among the locations where you can still see the wax sculptures are Thung Si Mueang and the City Pillar Shrine in the centre of town. Eventually, the wax sculptures are melted down or recycled, reflecting the Buddhist teaching of impermanence and the transient nature of all things.

Candle-making heritage

Ubon Ratchathani province has a long history of candle-making, and to learn more, visit the temples around Thung Si Mueang in the days leading up to the parades. This is when the artists and volunteers are usually applying the final touches to their creations. Some temples have local guides available to explain the stories behind the wax carvings and the traditions of the festival.

There are also workshops at some of the temples where visitors can try wax carving. Among the best locations to visit are Wat Maha Wanaram, Wat Phra That Nong Bua and Wat Sri Padu. The latter also has a heritage museum, the Sri Pradu Candle Learning Centre, a community centre dedicated to preserving Ubon Ratchathani’s candle carving tradition.

The giant sculptures used during the parade are constructed with a wire base to which plaster is added. Templates are used for some of the wax decorations, with the beeswax carefully moulded into place. It takes a vast amount of skill to carve the final finishing details, and when you try your hand at making some of the decorations, it makes you appreciate the skill of the artisans even more.

How to get to Ubon Ratchathani

There are daily flights from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani with a journey time of just over an hour. Low-cost airlines including AirAsia and Nok Air operate from Bangkok Don Mueang (DMK), while Thai Airways and Thai VietJet Air use Bangkok Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Ubon Ratchathani Airport (UBP) is located a 10-minute drive away from Ubon city centre.

Ubon Ratchathani train station sits at one end of the northeast branch line with an average journey time of 9.5 hours from Bangkok’s Krungthep Aphiwat Central station. If you are travelling directly to Ubon, the overnight sleeper train can be a comfortable option. Alternatively, if you’d like to explore more of Isaan on the way to Ubon (or on the way back), you can take one of the daytime trains and hop off at several locations along the way. Key stops of interest include: Pak Chong (for Khao Yai National Park), Nakhon Ratchasima (for Phimai Historical Park), Buriram, Surin and Si Sa Ket.

Several bus companies also ply the route between Bangkok and Ubon, with Nakhon Chai Air amongst those with the best reputation for safety. The journey time is around nine hours.

Good to know

The Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival is an incredible event to attend in person, but you do need to make plans in advance. Most of the accommodation options in the centre of Ubon get booked up months in advance, with an influx of Thai visitors from around the country making a beeline for Ubon. Prices at many hotels also jump as demand soars. Transport should also be booked in advance, with heavier demand for flights and trains from Bangkok in the days leading up to the event.

Ubon Ratchathani map

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