A journey through time with the Chiang Mai samlors

If you think about the most iconic form of transport in Thailand, it’s probably the tuk-tuk that springs to mind.  But before the tuk-tuk arrived in Thailand, another three-wheel vehicle ruled the roads; the samlor. The word samlor translates as ‘three wheels’ and this bicycle rickshaw was once a common sight on the streets and lanes of Chiang Mai.

The samlor harks back to a gentler era and a slower pace of life. While life in Chiang Mai still remains decidedly sabai sabai for many of its residents, the city has seen plenty of change since the samlor was first introduced in the 1930s.

Preserving the heritage

Despite the rise in ownership of motorbikes and cars and the large numbers of songthaews (shared taxis) on the roads, the humble samlor continues to operate — albeit in ever-decreasing numbers (around 30 still available in 2024) — and they remain a quintessential form of Chiang Mai transport.

It would be sad to lose this part of Chiang Mai’s heritage. The old adage, “use it or lose it” is particularly apt for the samlors. While this elegant form of transport is still used by Thai aunties travelling to or from the local markets, it’s rare to see a younger person using one. Most of the drivers have been doing this for decades and are in their senior years with an average age of over 60. The oldest driver still working in 2024 is a sprightly 83. This is not a profession that appeals to the younger generation. While that is understandable in the modern world, it also reveals how difficult it will be to keep this old tradition going in the decades to come.

There are, though, people fighting to preserve this delightful part of Chiang Mai’s heritage. People like travel industry veteran and long-term Chiang Mai resident, Frans Betgem. Ably supported by the local Rotary Club, Frans has been one of the strongest advocates for the samlor drivers. The knowledgeable Dutchman is also a keen historian (check out his excellent Chiang Mai Memories page on Facebook) and knows better than most that heritage like this is worth fighting for. Under the Chiang Mai a la Carte brand, Frans has not only helped support the drivers, but he has also introduced tourists of all ages to this wonderful form of transport which showcases another side of Chiang Mai.

Every traveller who uses a samlor is helping to preserve this old tradition. Although you can book trips directly with the drivers, booking a private tour allows for a more relaxed trip and enables you to discover the heart and soul of Chiang Mai in a sustainable and responsible fashion.

Samlor tours

A private samlor tour is about the journey, not just the destination. Relax, enjoy the views, and let the charm of Chiang Mai unfold around you. Cleverly thought-out half-day tours allow you to see markets and temples that are often overlooked by tourists.

Most of the samlor drivers speak little English but on a private tour, a knowledgeable English-speaking guide will accompany you. The route is planned to avoid the main roads as much as possible so will you get to see quiet lanes and alleyways from the comfort of the pedicab. Only one person can sit in the back and as tough as the drivers are (and they are as tough as teak), the routes enable them time to recuperate between pedalling.

Although you can hire a samlor by yourself for short trips, there can be a language barrier unless you or the person you are travelling with can speak Thai. If you would like to ride a samlor this way, look out for them near Warorot Market (Kad Luang), Ton Lamyai Market and the top end of Thapae Road near the Ping River.

The benefits of booking a private tour with specialist local company Chiang Mai a la Carte means you can ride for longer in the samlor, the driver earns more money, and you get to see and experience things you may have otherwise missed. Chiang Mai a la Carte offers several different samlor tours, all of which are highly recommended:

• Chiang Mai food tour
• Chiang Mai temple tour
• Chiang Mai market tour
• Chiang Mai evening tour

Responsible travel

Riding in a samlor is not just about getting from one place to another; it’s about immersing yourself in Chiang Mai’s history and pace of life. Travelling by samlor allows you to soak in your surroundings at a relaxed pace, making it perfect for sightseeing.

Pedal-powered and emission-free, samlors are an eco-conscious way to navigate the city. Riding in one aligns with the growing trend of sustainable tourism, making your journey not only enjoyable but also environmentally responsible.

The samlor drivers are living history. Each samlor driver has a story to tell. Many have been pedalling for decades and, via a local guide, can share fascinating insights about Chiang Mai’s history, culture, and landmarks. It’s a personal connection that you won’t find with other forms of transport and reason enough to support this classic part of Chiang Mai’s heritage on your next trip to the Rose of the North.

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